Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
